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An easy guide to portable air conditioners

A portable air conditioner is a self-contained unit that extracts air from a room; it heats some and cools the rest. The unwanted air (either hot or cold) is then removed from a building using a vent.

These units are usually pretty heavy, but most come with castors. This enables them to be set up in a different room.


How does a portable air conditioner work?

A portable air conditioner works similarly to a fridge, although all the workings are fixed inside the unit. It also contains a compressor and two metal coils; depending on which direction the refrigerant is pumped, one coil is heated, and the other is cooled.

A fan then sucks the air through a filter to remove foreign particles like dust or allergens before it’s separated and sent over the coils. In cooling mode, the air is expelled through the vent at the front of the unit. And in heating mode, the air is removed through the external pipe.

Just so you know, a portable aircon differs from a split unit, which is permanently mounted in one position.

What is supplied with a portable aircon?

All of our units come with a 1.5-metre pipe kit, a fishtail adaptor and a slide bar. The fishtail adaptor changes the shape of the pipe and elongates the hole, making it easier to channel air through a window. Please note, the slide bar is ideal for sash windows, but it can also be used for similar window types.

To use, just slot the fishtail into the slide bar – this will seal the window and stop hot air from entering the building. However, if you plan to divert your extraction pipes through a wall, you won’t need to use the fishtail and slide bar.

Do all air conditioners require venting, and can the pipe be extended?

Yes, all aircons will require venting in one way or another. Most tubes cannot be extended (except for the Airflex15) but can be shortened if necessary. However, the pipe for the Airflex15 can be extended up to three metres on both ends.

Important safeguards

The length of the soft hose extends between 30 and 180 cm. Please do not exceed this length; it can cause the unit to malfunction and invalidate the warranty. Keep the hose as straight and short as possible, and avoid bending by more than 30°. Excessive bends may prevent the unit from expelling the hot air, which will damage the unit and warranty. Please keep the outlet vent well ventilated and unobstructed at all times.

Setting up your aircon

Start by finding your window kit. Then, locate a window that opens so your aircon can expel the extracted heat.

Top tip: Most portable air conditioners are supplied with a slide bar that seals off the rest of the window. It stops cold air from escaping and hot air from coming inside.

How to install a portable air conditioner

Providing you have all the right parts, and your window is the right size, installing a portable air conditioner is pretty straightforward. In fact, all you’ll need is a screwdriver.

Sliding or sash windows

While each aircon model differs slightly, this general guide outlines how to install a portable vent in most sliding or sash windows.

  1. Start by sliding the window open. Place the slide bar into the window gap and adjust the length, so it fits the window.
  2. Bolt or screw the slide bar to affix the length, and then close the window.
  3. Attach the exhaust pipe to the air conditioner (usually at the back of the unit).
  4. Then, attach the flat exhaust nozzle to the other end of the exhaust pipe.
  5. Extend the exhaust pipe and insert the nozzle into the slide bar.
  6. Finally, plug the unit in, switch it on and adjust the temperature. And that’s it.

What happens if I don’t have a sash window, or the window is bigger than the slide bar?

If this is the case, you can use a universal AC-Airlock. It seals around your open window and zips around the nozzle of your hose to stop the return flow of warm air. Take a look.

How to vent an aircon through a wall

One of the most popular methods of extraction is to use a wall vent. This way, you can choose to divert the heat outside or into another room, i.e. a laundry room, storage area or garage.

To make a wall vent, start by carefully cutting a hole for the exhaust hose in your wall. For most models, this is 150mm, but please double-check your manual.

When the installation is complete, cover the circumference of the seal with silicone caulk to keep the hose in position. Alternatively, you can purchase a tumble dryer wall vent plate with a matching diameter and lock it in place with a jubilee clip.

On the exterior of the wall, we recommend using gravity flaps. Other types of grill or vent constrict the airflow and may lead to the unit malfunctioning.

What happens if the external airflow is restricted?

This all depends how badly the unit was set up, and how long it has been left to run. Here are the most common problems and solutions.

Reduced performance- Hot air can’t leave the unit or property. This can be resolved by correcting the venting.

Shutting down due to compressor overheating - Hot air builds within the unit and stops the cooling effect from kicking in. If this happens repeatedly, the compressor will fail. To resolve, let the unit cool for 30+ minutes and then test without venting. If the unit produces cold air from the front and hot air from the exhaust then the compressor is still functional. Correct the venting and continue to use the unit. If it does not operate correctly during this test then irreparable damage has been caused in this instance.

Failure of compressor - Same as the above, but irreparable damage has been caused in this instance. You'll need to purchase a replacement unit.

The unit has become noisy - This is due to extra strain on the fan. If caught early, it may not cause long-term damage and correcting the venting may fix the problem. However, if the noise persists when the vent pipe is not connected, the fan has been damaged.

Damage to vent fan - Same as the above, but irreparable damage has been caused in this instance. You'll need to purchase a replacement unit.

The unit has started to leak - The expelled air contains a lot of moisture, so any airflow problems will cause water to collect inside and ultimately leak.

Lack of power to the unit, display issues or control issues - Same as the above. However, if water is left inside the aircon, it can cause an electrical short circuit and corrosion, which will lead to future faults.

Troubleshooting: common issues

Not cooling

If the unit doesn’t efficiently cool the room, there are a couple of things you should look at;

  1. The room - What is the room's width, length and height; could the unit be too small for the space? How many heat sources are being used, i.e. TVs, laptops, printers? How many people are in the room at any one time? Click here to learn the BTU (British Thermal Unit) required to cool your room. Please note, conservatories, glass rooms and sunrooms require double the stated BTU.
  2. How the unit is vented - Check the venting and make sure it is as straight and flat as possible (no bends greater than a 30-degree angle). You can also remove the hose from the unit and check the air coming out of the front is cold and the air coming out the back is hot (when in cooling mode).

Leaking

If the unit is leaking, we need to find out where it’s leaking from.

  • If it’s leaking from the exhaust hose - This probably means it has been vented incorrectly. There will be a build-up of condensation in the hose, and the hot air cannot escape.
  • Is it’s leaking from the base - Check for visible cracks in the bottom. If you can't see any damage, make sure the unit is on a level surface – otherwise, the drip tray (tank) will overflow and leak.

For more advice, please call our expert team on 03300 412 271

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